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HIKING
For a safe, comfortable hike, follow a few simple guidelines.
Water. There is no drinking water along the trail. The only sources near the trail are in the Oswald West campground and east parking lot.
Footwear. Regardless of the time of year, you'll find slippery and muddy spots. You don't need hiking boots, but you may find that your everyday shoes don't have enough tread.
Clothing. Carry a windbreaker or sweater. Temperature and winds change throughout the day and according to the direction of the trail.
Timing. Add an hour to your plans. Wonders on the trail take time to unfold.
The following description deals with the trail through Oswald West State Park in six sections from south to north.
The trail starts up several switchbacks before entering the woods. In the spring, look for wild iris and trillium. Enjoy the vistas south over the spit and east over the Nehalem Valley and into the Coast Range. Notice that limbs on the trees start relatively close to the ground, reflecting the prime growing conditions on the south side of the mountain.
After walking about half an hour, you cross a dirt road and continue the trail along the north side of the ridge. On the down side of the trail, notice that the trees look uniform in height - an example of managed forest. To the northeast, about 1-1/2 miles across the valley, you see an example of clearcut logging. The clearcut lies on private land whose southern border you can detect at the edge of the tall trees just a few hundred yards down the slope.
Looking north over the clearcut on a clear day, you can see Angora and Onion Peaks, each about 3,000 feet high. As you continue along the ridge, watch for glimpses of Haystack Rock off Cannon Beach and Tillamook Head (Ecola State Park).
Ten or 15 minutes after crossing the road, the trail brings you onto a shoulder facing south. To reach the top of the mountain, scramble up the rocks to your right (west).
Top of Neahkahnie Mountain to Highway 101 - two miles. The top of Neahkahnie offers vistas ranging from 50 feet to 50 miles, depending on the weather. On a clear day, you can see the Nehalem Bay jetties (6 miles), Tillamook Bay jetties (12 miles), Cape Meares (18 miles), Three Arch Rocks (20 miles), and Cape Lookout (28 miles). The horizon line is 40 to 60 miles away, depending on weather conditions over the ocean.
To continue hiking north or to return on the south trail, go down the rocks the same way you came up. Don't try to scramble down along the west ridge.
As you walk the north trail, notice the increasing number and size of Douglas fir trees and the relatively high point at which limbs begin on the trunks of both fir and spruce. These giant trees are more typical of the ancient rain forest than trees on the south side of the mountain.
Highway 101 to Short Sands Beach, one mile. Park in the graveled viewpoint 3/10 mile south of milepost 40.
In a few minutes you reach the spur trail to the Devil's Cauldron viewpoint, a short hike to a scenic overlook.
Continuing north on the main trail, you pass near several fallen trees. Notice their wide and shallow root systems. Conifers have a wide span to soak up moisture but poor grips into the ground.
Short Sands Beach to Cape Falcon, 2.4 miles. Park in the Oswald West parking lots along Highway 101 and follow the trail 1/4 mile toward the picnic area near the beach. Or park in the north lot (just south of milepost 39) and follow the trail along the ridge. This route bypasses the picnic area.
The route out of Cape Falcon leads through pockets of old growth and along several vistas down onto Short Sands beach. In 1982 and 1998, 150-mile winds blew down hundreds of huge trees just north of the picnic area. You'll notice replanting as you pass through the devastated area.
Cape Falcon to Falcon Cove Road, 3 miles. A spur trail invites you to walk a few hundred yards between the salal to viewpoints near the end of Cape Falcon, 200 feet over the surf. Looking southeast, you see Highway 101 and Neahkahnie Mountain. Views to the south are similar to those from the Highway 101 viewpoints and the top of Neahkahnie Mountain. To the north, you can see Haystack Rock off Cannon Beach (8 miles) and Tillamook Head (12 miles). On an exceptional day, you can see Clatsop Spit and the mouth of the Columbia River (35 miles).
The walk northeast from Cape Falcon includes a fairly rugged gain of 800 feet in two miles.
Falcon Cove Road to Arch Cape Mill Road. The trail crosses Falcon Cove Road about 50 yards west of its junction with Highway 101 and continues north off your map. It crosses Highway 101 1/4 mile later and enters the forest again at a white gate next to a large pullout from the highway. The trail continues over Arch Cape and down onto a local road that connects with Highway 101 just 1/4 mile north of the tunnel.
HORIZON LINE
KAYAKS & CANOES
From the launch at Aldervale, it's five miles to Nehalem, seven to the Highway 101 ramp, eight to Wheeler and 10 to the ramp in Nehalem Bay State Park. Launches at Roy Creek Park add about a mile to each distance listed from Aldervale.
Bay. Paddle around the islands off Dean Point and (except at low tide) over the mud flats. To avoid crossing the river from Wheeler, explore the marshy area on the east side of the bay just north of town. Unless you're strong and experienced, don't go south of the State Park boat ramp. If you can see Jetty Fishery Marina or the east end of the south jetty, you're too close.
Ocean. Put your boat in anywhere there's beach access and enjoy the open ocean around Neahkahnie Mountain and Cape Falcon. Ocean kayakers also enjoy surfing at Short Sands Beach.
If you take your kayak into the surf at Short Sands, please keep a safe distance from people using surf boards and boogie boards. Look for outside peaks, letting the folks without paddles enjoy the choice breaks.
Whitewater. The nearest whitewater involves launching into the Nehalem River just downstream from the Foss Road bridge about six miles east of Roy Creek Park. Class 2+ in spring and 1+ in summer. Most whitewater kayakers prefer the Wilson and Trask Rivers, each Class 3 in the spring, accessible from Highway 6.
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